Skin Anatomy 101: Epidermis

/in /by

“Your epidermis is showing” said 10 year old me to a boy at recess. Oh, young me thought I was so witty…

The epidermis is the skin that covers the entire exterior surface of the human body and is the primary site of interface with the surrounding world. It functions as a protective barrier that prevents internal tissues from exposure to trauma, toxins, temperature extremes, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and bacteria. The skin is made up of three layers; Epidermis, the Dermis, and the Subcutaneous Layer.

We will be discussing each layer of the skin in this months skin series. Today we are starting from the top, literally..

Epidermis

Your epidermis is a fairly thin, tough, outer layer of the skin. The majority of the cells in the epidermis are keratinocytes. Keratinocytes originate from cells in the deepest layer of the epidermis, known as the basal layer. New keratinocytes slowly migrate up toward the surface of the epidermis. Once the keratinocytes reach the skin surface, they are gradually shed and replaced by newer cells pushed up from below.

Photo from Women’s Health Advice.

There are five cell layers of the epidermis:

Stratum Corneum: The outermost portion of the epidermis, known as the stratum corneum, is moderately waterproof, and when unharmed, prevents most bacteria, viruses, and other foreign substances from entering the body. This layer consists of fully mature keratinocytes, which contain fibrous proteins (keratins) that continually shed.

Stratum Lucidum: Can only be found in those regions of the body where the skin is particularly thick, such as the palms or the soles.

Stratum Granulosum: Keratinocytes from the squamous layer are pushed up through the layers of the stratum lucidum and stratum granulosum. As these cells move further towards the surface of the skin, they get bigger and flatter and adhere together, eventually becoming dehydrated and die.

Stratum Spinosoum: Otherwise known as the “spiny layer” due to the fact that the cells are held together with spiny projections. Within this layer there are basal cells that have been pushed upward, however these maturing cells are now called squamous cells, or keratinocytes. Keratinocytes produce keratin, a tough, protective protein that makes up the majority of the structure of the skin, hair, and nails.

Stratum Basale: The basal layer is the deepest layer of the epidermis, and contains basal cells. This layer of skin cells is 1-2 layers thick. The basal cells continually divide, forming new keratinocytes that replace the cells that shed from the stratum corneum.

Stay tuned, we are going deeper next week: Skin Anatomy: Dermis

10 Common Skin Mistakes

/in /by

 

10 Tips for Better Skin Photo

For most of us our skin care routines are some ritual we stick to, mindlessly doing the same thing day in and day out. Habits can be hard to break, but what if I told you that you were repeating the wrong steps, or doing them out of order? Would you change your ritual? Here are 10 Common Skin Care Mistakes you should drop like a bad habit ( See what I did there…)

Over Exfoliating

The key word is OVER, as in, too much. Yes, there can be too much of a good thing, and exfoliating is surely one of them. Its extremely tempting to vigorously scrub or serum your way to that “tight face” feeling. The truth is continuously buffing away the too much of the top skin layer can have damaging long-term effects. The key here: Exfoliate two-three times a week max.

 

Climbing Into Bed Without Washing Your Face

We forgive you for that one night you finished a bottle of wine to yourself, but don’t make this a habit. Sober you will be so appreciative of drunk you if you wash your face before flopping into bed for the night. Makeup left on overnight is clogging your pores and your oil glands. Meaning, your pores will be looking about as big as your hangover. Wash yo’face ladies!

Picking… 

I am fairly certain everyone and their mother knows that you aren’t supposed to pick at your face, but pimple after pimple you keep on pickin’ on. Anytime you pick at your skin you are causing irritation and possibly scaring. Hands off, ladies!

Not washing your Makeup Brushes

Remember last week when you skin resembled a margarita pizza and you slathered as much foundation on as possible? Well this weeks face does not really welcome last weeks germ-y brushes. Keep them clean ladies, “spread the love” does not apply to this situation.

Sleeping With Your…All Over The Place…

“I woke up like this” does not happen to people who sleep with their hair down. Braid it up, twist it back, what ever you have to do to keep it off your face. The oil from you hair is not helping your complexion.

Not Washing Your Sheets Frequently

Your sheets have a dirty job, lets face it, they accumulate all sorts of “stuff”. A short list of examples: dead skin cells, conditioner reside, the makeup you forgot to wash off last night, puddles of drool, and so much more we don’t even need to talk about… You should be changing your sheets and pillow cases at least once a week, or more if you are acne prone!

Sunscreen isn’t just for the beach

This is not rocket science here, its simple. Wear sunscreen, every damn day!

Not Getting Enough Sleep

Sleep looks good on you, dark circles don’t. Be sure to get full night of beauty rest in, your tub of green concealer will thank you!

Eating a Poor Diet

Fuel your body, feed your skin. By fuel, I do not mean the cheeseburger you are currently ordering at the drive thru on your way to your next meeting. You know its not good for your figure, lets just chalk it up to its not good for your appearance, period.

Slathering your face with every product you own.

Serums, on serums, on serums, is not the key here. Less truly is more, unless we are talking about changing your sheets, then more really is more. In this cases however, you really need to pick a select few high quality products that suit your needs. If you have fickle skin that you think requires multiple serums, try alternating the days you apply them.

Upcoming Classes 2015

/in , /by

1210 X 423 FLEX TIME SLIDER HOMEPAGE

Flex Time 88 Hour Laser Training Class

This new option is for the local student who cannot take a full 2 weeks off to complete the course. Great for esthetic students currently taking night classes or those who don’t want to use all their vacation time to increase their skills!

  • Classes will be held 1 day a week for 10 contiguous weeks ( 11 weeks depending on the holiday schedule)
  • This 88 hour comprehensive laser course satisfies all ARRA requirements
  • We also offer “Pay As You Learn”option for this program, which divides the tuition into 10 payments of $636 and one payment of $640. Payment is due 3 weeks before each class.

Date: August 16th-October 25th ( No class September 6th)
Cost: $7000.00

More information here

 

40 Hour Didactic Only Class 

This 40 hour, live didactic course was developed for estheticians, cosmetologists, and individuals making a career change into laser esthetics and is an ARRA approved course that satisfies the didactic requirement for licensure in Arizona. Registered nurses and physician assistants who desire a more comprehensive course than the 24 Hour Health Professional Course may take this 40 Hour Basic Laser Operator Course to satisfy didactic requirements for Arizona licensure.

Date: August 16th- September 14th (8 am – 6 pm)
Cost: $1000.00 

More information here

 

Microneedling Class 

The Master Microneedling Certification Course was initially developed in 2010 making it the first microneedling course available to practitioners. This course was developed by a doctor in collaboration with microneedling experts who have performed hundreds of treatments and have trained thousands of skincare professionals. The Master Microneedling Course is based on peer-reviewed research, many hours of protocol/product development and testing, and now constitutes the most thorough and up to date microneedling certification training available anywhere.

Kit Includes:

  • 2 SkinStylus® Devices (depth of needles range from .25mm – 2.5 mm)
  • Both corded and cordless options
  • Airstylus Nebulizer and Compressor
  • 40  Biolock™ needle cartridges ( 40 clients)
  • Full size bottle of C&F Serum
  • Full size bottle of HA Cu Treatment Serum
  • Full size bottle of Brightening Cream
  • Full size bottle of HA Cu Recovery Cream
  • 40 packets of NumbsUP! numbing cream
  • 20 brochures

Date: eptember 26th 9am-6pm ( 8 hour online course to be completed prior to class required)
Cost: $4500(Includes Kit); $995(no kit)

More information here

 

24 Hour Medical Director Course

Arizona requires that a medical director supervise the operation of any Class II and above cosmetic laser. In order to be licensed by ARRA as a medical director in AZ, doctors/nurse practitioners must complete a 24 hour medical director course from an ARRA approved training facility. EALA offers an ARRA approved medical director course at our ultra-comfortable Scottsdale training theater. Sit back and relax in our leather recliners while learning laser biophysics, hair and skin histology, laser safety, medical director duties, LSO duties, hair reduction, IPL photofacial and other required training. AZ Attendees are required by ARRA to take a 50 question test and pass with an 80% or better score.

This course will also include the 8 hour Laser Safety Officer (LSO) certification, which is needed in Arizona, Florida, Texas and Ohio and other states for cosmetic laser facilities.

Date: August 16th – August 30th (8 am – 6 pm)
Cost: $1000.00 

More information here

 

SIGN-UP TODAY!

 

Types of Lasers (and non-lasers) 101

/in /by

fractional-laser-resurfacing

Ablative Lasers

Carbon Dioxide Laser (CO2)

Treats:

  • Deep set wrinkles
  • Acne scars and other scarring
  • Warts
  • Birthmarks
  • Skin tags
  • Saggy skin (encourages collagen production for skin tightening)
  • Skin cancer
  • Corns on feet
  • Moles
  • Sun damage
  • Not good for stretch marks

Side Effects:

  • Traditional CO2 lasers took months to heal with a high risk of scarring and red skin.
  • Fractional CO2 lasers are less invasive and generally require 2-3 weeks of recovery
  • If you are Asian, you have a higher risk of hyper-pigmentation or hypo-pigmentation. Do not get this treatment if you have active acne on your skin.

 

Erbium Laser

Treats:

  • Fine lines
  • Small to moderate wrinkles
  • Skin pigmentation problems
  • Acne scars
  • Sun damage
  • Moles

Non- Ablative Laser

Pulsed-Dye Laser 

Treats:

  • Vascular lesions
  • Spider veins
  • Port wine stains (birthmarks)
  • Rosacea
  • Broken capillaries
  • Fine lines around eyes
  • Stretch marks

 

Nd:Yag Laser

Treats:

  • Hair removal
  • Spider veins
  • Skin pigmentation issues
  • Tattoo removal
  • Skin rejuvenation

 

Alexandrite Laser

Treats:

  • Hair removal
  • Tattoo removal
  • Leg veins

Non-Lasers

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

Treats:

  • Rosacea and facial redness
  • Broken blood vessels
  • Pigmented lesions and skin discolorations
  • Skin tightening
  • Moderately good at removing hair
  • Some tattoo removal

 

Infrared

Treats:

  • Skin tightening
  • Facial contouring
  • Non-surgical face lift
  • Stimulating collagen
  • Saggy skin

 

Radiofrequency

Treats:

  • Skin tightening
  • Facial rejuvenation

 

Ultrasound Imaging

Treats:

  • Skin tightening
  • Increase collagen production
  • Improve skin elasticity
  • Firming skin

Kris’s Corner: “There’s no crying in esthetic school”

/in /by

When I was in esthetic school, there were several girls you didn’t want working on you since they never seemed to pay attention in class.  I had one of those girls ask me if she could wax my arms.  I’m thinking, what harm could she do?  It’s not a brow, it’s an arm!

So I sit on a stool, and she applies the wax, and puts the cloth on top and rubs it down.  She grabs my arm underneath and as she pulls the cloth, her fist is aimed at my head, not away from it.  Yep, she punched my on my forehead, just above my eye.

I go flying backwards off the stool, and thank goodness she had a hold of my arm, because I would have fallen off!  She pulls me back up, ( I have a goose egg starting on my forehead) and I inform her this is why nobody lets her work on them.

You’re so vein, the truth about Varicose and Spider Veins!

/in /by

Spider Veins photos

 

Okay, we have all seen them, some of us even have them.  I’m talking about those unsightly spider and varicose veins. The very ones that make you wish swimsuit season was shorter and that pants were mandatory all year long. Instead of hibernating in your air-conditioned house this spring and summer, let’s talk about treatments and prevention for varicose and spider veins.

Spider Veins Vs. Varicose

Varicose veins are ghastly-looking red, dark blue, and flesh-colored veins that appear enlarged, ropy, twisted and bulging beneath the skin (typically on the legs). These can actually lead to aching pain, itching, and swelling in the feet and ankles.

More often than not people refer to unsightly veins in their legs as “varicose veins,” it is more likely that they have spider veins however. Spider veins are much smaller and milder than varicose veins , appearing as very thin red or blue lines or squiggles, often forming a web-like pattern along the surface of the skin.

What causes spider and varicose veins?

Varicose veins are a result of weakened valves in your legs, these weakened valves cause blood to collect and back up in your veins, opposed to flowing properly to your heart. This hitch in the process is what causes the veins to become enlarged and twisted.

We know that genetics and aging play a roll in the development of varicose and spider veins, however there are lifestyle factors that can put you at risk of developing them. Pregnancy, obesity, and standing for long periods of time are all examples of factors that can increase your risk.

During your pregnancy, it’s possible that you may notice veins popping up on your legs and also near your lady part and buttock regions. These are most commonly mild and do typically improve post pregnancy.

Spider veins are also caused by the backup of blood, so the risk factors for developing them are similar to the risk factors for varicose veins. Spider veins can also form as a result of sun exposure, injuries or hormonal changes.

Due to the hormonal components, menopause, hormone replacement therapy and taking birth control pills can all increase your risk of developing spider veins and varicose veins.

Treatment Options

Sclerotherapy

Sclerotherapy is a procedure done in a doctor’s office, where a liquid chemical is injected into the vein to close it off. The vein then fades after a few weeks.   Depending on the severity of the veins being treated this procedure may need to be repeated for optimal results, typically about 4-6 weeks after the initial treatment. Due to the fact that this treatment is considered a cosmetic procedure, this will not be covered by insurance.

Remember, this is a cosmetic procedure so insurance will not cover it and treatments can be up to $1000 per session.

Laser Therapy

The goal for laser treatment of the vein is to deliver enough light/thermal energy to the vein to ultimately break up and disappear the vein all together. This will typically take several treatments to actually disappear the vein.

Lasers may be an option for those not so fond of needles, but know that lasers do not work as well for all skin types and colors.

Surgery

Let’s be honest, surgery is never usually the first choice in treatment, but a great option for more severe cases of varicose veins. The procedure consists of either tying shut or entirely removing the effected veins. This procedure is typically low risk in regards to the fact that the larger veins that keep most the circulation going to the heart, are deeper in the leg, not on the surface.

Spray Tans

Seems like a silly suggestion, I know, it won’t remove the veins but you can try hide the appearance.  We know that sunless tanner is our friend when trying to mask other beauty flaws. And remember the key wording here, SPRAY TANS, don’t go out and bake your skin in the sun. We are talking about preventative measures, not putting yourself at risk for other things like sun damage, or worse skin cancer!

Concealer

Find yourself in a pinch and are desperate to hide those unsightly veins? A little concealer never hurt anyone, simply apply to area and blend with a brush or makeup sponged. For best results use a yellow based concealer, the same one you would use to cover dark circles under your eye. To set the concealer be sure to dab a little powder on top and blend!

There is another option similar to this, which is a spray make up specifically formulated for legs or large body parts to give you an airbrushed look. This being a fabulous idea, it however doesn’t provide the same coverage as concealer will.

Prevention

We know that genetics and hormones contribute to varicose and spider veins, however small lifestyle changes can play a huge role in the prevention of future unsightly veins and management of existing ones!

Sunscreen

Spider veins can be caused by sun exposure, which is often the reason why some fair skinned ladies may experience tiny spider veins that appear as broken capillaries on their faces, particularly around the nose. The solution: sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen.

Exercise

Go on get out there! Get that blood pumping! By exercising daily you are not only helping to promote circulation and reduce your chances of developing varicose veins, the common side effects of exercise are often weight management!

Because varicose veins and spider veins are often caused by being sedentary for long periods, your best prevention is to get up and groove! If exercise isn’t your thing, the least you can do is get up and walk to your friend’s cubicle for a little daily gossip.

Don’t Cross Your Legs

Take being lady like and throw that out the window, keep your legs uncrossed, this is not a beauty myth! Speeding long periods of time with your legs crossed can promote the formation of spider and varicose veins, by constricting blood from flowing to and from your legs and feet. So take a breath, sit up straight and plant your feet flat on the floor. If you are desperate to cross your legs, settle for crossing your ankles, now that’s lady like!

Give Your Feet a Break!

I know I just told you not to sit all day, but there is a happy medium. If you have to be on your feet all day make sure to wear shoes that give you good support, and take a few breaks to put your feet up. Yes, up, it’s important to get help keep that circulation going strong. Not only will this help your feet but the rest of your body will thank you for this moment of rest!

Compression Socks

These fashion forward gems may not already be in your wardrobe yet, but if you find your self standing on your feet for long periods you may want to invest in these puppies! Compression socks help to prevent the blood from pooling in your legs and feet. I know you are scared of committing to these fashion forward items, there are lots of ways to conceal them, maybe under a cute pair of boots?

Why dermaplaning is a great add-on service

/in /by

 

Dermaplaning No more peach fuzz

Dermaplaning also known as the shaving of the face, is one of the best add on services in the medical spa industry. We often find our self redistricted in the the add on area due to various contraindications between services. Removing epidermal skin also allows products to penetrate more readily into the deeper layers. Physicians may recommend this treatment to prepare the skin for medical procedures such as laser treatments or deep chemical peels. It also may be used by estheticians to prepare the skin for superficial chemical peels or before a cleansing facial. Below is a list of services Dermaplaning is great to do prior to:

  • Laser Hair Reduction: If you’re going to remove the hair from the face with a laser and it has to be shaved first anyways, you might as well take advantage of the mild exfoliation you will get from dermaplaning.
  • Photofacials:  It will help exfoliate the dead skin cells and provide a better penetration of the light and therefore provide a more aggressive treatment.
  • Microneedling:  This is a great add on to provide a little bit more aggressive treatment, and also get rid of the vellus hairs.
  • Chemical peels:  Some people like to perform the dermaplaning before the chemical peel so the chemicals will penetrate better. There is another school of thought that says to do the chemical peel first and see how reactive the skin is, and then decide whether or not to dermaplane.

Curvalicious – Les Nouvelles June 2015

/in /by

 

I know, we had you at “curvalicious”! Kris wrote a must read article on Body contouring in the June edition of Les Nouvelles. In this 8 page spread Kris goes over the basics on each of the hot (or cold) body contouring treatments and who is the best candidate for them. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for Kris’s next article, its got us tingling!

Read the full Curvalicious article here!

Chemical Peel Course

/in /by

8 Hour Online Chemical Peel Course
Format(s): Online (non-AZ practitioners only)
Location: Online

This 8 hour online class will not only teach you how to chemically peel the skin, but skin anatomy and common skin conditions that chemical peels are used for.

Enrollees will learn the following subjects:
• Skin anatomy
• Chemical peel history
• Skin conditions
• Classifications and peel depth
• Mechanism of action of common peeling agents
• Contraindications
• Avoiding potential complications
• Post peel tips

Our online chemical peel course will demonstrate the application of a mid-depth peel and give instructions for the participant to mimic the demonstration application in their own home with non-chemical components. You will receive the appropriate certificate of completion at the end of this course.

Notice: If practitioners are planning to use an actual (non-simulated) mid-depth peel in this course or in their practice, they must be under the direction of a medical director with a DEA license, or a health professional possessing a DEA license.

PREREQUISITE: There is no prerequisite for this course. Arizona practitioners are strongly advised to take the live version of this course.

 

8 Hour Hybrid Chemical Peel Course
Format(s): Hybrid (non-AZ practitioners only)
Location: online then Scottsdale, AZ and affiliate locations including Boston, MA and Vancouver, B.C.

Our 8 Hour Hybrid Chemical Peel course blends the best of both online training and hands on application. The 6 hour online didactic portion of the class will not only teach you how to chemically peel the skin, but skin anatomy and common skin conditions that chemical peels are used for.

Specifically, you will learn the following subjects:
• Skin anatomy
• Chemical peel history
• Skin conditions
• Classifications and peel depth
• Mechanism of action of common peeling agents
• Contraindications
• Avoiding potential complications
• Post peel tips

Once you have completed the online theory course, you will attend either a hands-on practicum at Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy’s Scottsdale location, or one of Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy’s affiliate schools who offer the chemical peel training. This 2-hour hands-on portion consists of a demonstration and then the student performing a mid-depth peel application. Because we are using a mid-depth peel, if participants are wishing to use this depth of peel in their practice, they must be under the direction of a medical director with a DEA license, or a health professional possessing a DEA license. You will receive the appropriate certificate of completion at the end of this course.

PREREQUISITE: There is no prerequisite for this course.

 

8 Hour Live Chemical Peel Course
Format(s): In person
Locations: Scottsdale, Vancouver, B.C., Boston, MA, and Minnesota

This 8 hour live, in-person class will not only teach you how to chemically peel the skin, but skin anatomy and common skin conditions that chemical peels are used for.

Specifically, you will learn the following subjects:
• Skin anatomy
• Chemical peel history
• Skin conditions
• Classifications and peel depth
• Mechanism of action of common peeling agents
• Contraindications
• Avoiding potential complications
• Post peel tips

This course will demonstrate the safe and effective use of a mid-depth peel. Students will then have the opportunity to perform a mid-depth peel application. Because we are using a mid-depth peel, if participants are wishing to use this depth of peel in their practice, they must be under the direction of a medical director with a DEA license, or a health professional possessing a DEA license. You will receive the appropriate certificate of completion at the end of this course.

PREREQUISITE: There is no prerequisite for this course.

 

Contact Tori for more information

Dermaplaning Course

/in /by

4 hour Live Dermaplaning Course
Format(s): In person only
Locations: Scottsdale, and Boston

Dermaplaning is a simple and safe procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding the skin of fine vellus hair (commonly called peach fuzz). The art and technique of dermaplaning/epidermal leveling utilizes a surgical blade to perform this procedure on the face. Although it has been used for many years, many estheticians, nurses and other skin care professionals haven’t been trained in how to properly perform this popular and profitable procedure.

Dermaplaning is also one of the best add on services in the medical spa industry. We often find our self redistricted in the the add on area due to various contraindications between services. Removing epidermal skin also allows products to penetrate more readily into the deeper layers. Physicians may recommend this treatment to prepare the skin for medical procedures such as laser treatments or deep chemical peels. It also may be used by estheticians to prepare the skin for superficial chemical peels or before a cleansing facial. Below is a list of services Dermaplaning is great to do prior to:

  • Laser Hair Reduction: If you’re going to remove the hair from the face with a laser and it has to be shaved first anyways, you might as well take advantage of the mild exfoliation you will get from dermaplaning.
  • Photofacials:  It will help exfoliate the dead skin cells and provide a better penetration of the light and therefore provide a more aggressive treatment.
  • Microneedling:  This is a great add on to provide a little bit more aggressive treatment, and also get rid of the vellus hairs.
  • Chemical peels:  Some people like to perform the dermaplaning before the chemical peel so the chemicals will penetrate better. There is another school of thought that says to do the chemical peel first and see how reactive the skin is, and then decide whether or not to dermaplane.

This 4 hour interactive dermaplaning course power point lecture/ theory seminar includes an in-depth demonstration, as well as hands-on practical/practice.

Additionally, attendees receive a Dermaplaning Course Kit ($100 value) consisting of:
• 20 sterile surgical steel blades
• 1 surgical steel blade holder
• 1 safety blade remover
• 1 hard case

Attendees will be given hands on opportunities to perform and receive this procedure. Students will receive a certificate of attendance upon completion.
PREREQUISITE: There is no prerequisite for this course.

Contact Tori for more information!